Being a perpetually sunny island, and I’m not exaggerating, Hvar has such a unique microclimate that it sometimes feels like we’re in a parallel universe. However, it also has a few aces up its sleeve that you may not have known about.
Why visit the island of Hvar? Five Things You May Not Have Known
There is a story circulating on the island, and when stories are told, they often have multiple facets, so I’m not certain which one is exactly true. It is said that long ago, winter stays on Hvar were free. There was a rule that applied to completely free accommodation if it rained for more than three hours or a 50% discount on accommodation if it snowed or there was dense fog. Now, as I sit by the radiator in winter and gaze at the red roofs of my small town, the rain creating streams down steep steps without proper drainage, I can’t help but admire the audacity of someone who slammed a stamp on this marketing campaign.
Fall and spring are indeed the most beautiful times to visit the island of Hvar. Perhaps it’s my age speaking, and the fact that summers increasingly represent scorching heat and relentless crowds, which I prefer to avoid. However, the opportunities that these seasons offer on the island are indescribably beautiful. One of the most special events is the Procession “za Križen”, which takes place during Easter when the entire island breathes and experiences something as one. This pilgrimage, over 500 years old, connects six neighboring villages and during the night of Maundy Thursday, it transforms into a lively river of people whose energy is felt by all who join, regardless of their religious affiliation. Processions also take place in other locations on the island, each in its own slightly different way.
In mid-May, after the celebration of St.Prosper in the town of Hvar, the island begins to slowly awaken. This is also the time when we celebrate the establishment of the Hygienic Society of Hvar, the first true tourist organization in Europe. The town becomes a place of idea exchange, workshops, and discussions, wine and gourmet friendly competitions, and a fair of local products. This is a kind of season kickoff, a slow test flight for what lies ahead and the basis for endless debates and predictions on wooden benches.
One of the events worth highlighting (and visiting) is the fun and educational Lavender Festival that takes place every year in mid-July in the beautiful village of Velo Grablje near the town of Hvar. The fields are filled with the intoxicating scent of lavender before the harvest, and the place is bustling with visitors eager to experience the true essence of the island. Various workshops for children, an island products fair, tasting of local food, communal lavender picking, and later cooking lavender in the traditional way are all part of the festival. The program varies from year to year, and the association behind the festival makes a great effort to ensure that our old traditions do not fade away.
Every second year in Stari Grad, a unique two-day festival called “Dani u Vali” takes place, celebrating the love for the sea and boats. During the festival, the bay of Stari Grad transforms into a picturesque stage filled with traditional boats and the aromas of Mediterranean cuisine. Make sure to add this event to your bucket list, as it offers a rare opportunity to experience such a concentration of authentic island life, indulging in gastronomic delights, concerts, exhibitions, and workshops. All of this takes place against the backdrop of the city’s 2,400-year-old historical setting.
The island of Hvar is the only destination in Dalmatia where you can journey through the history of wine culture in Croatia in a single visit. From its beginnings over 2,400 years ago during the time of the ancient Greeks and later the Romans, to the development of modern viticulture, everything is preserved in the rich wine-growing regions of Jelsa and Stari Grad. The “Fešta Vina” (Wine Festival) in Jelsa, conceived more than 70 years ago, is the central enogastronomic event where we celebrate the best of Hvar’s wines.
To truly experience Hvar as it is, and as we see it, one must first get lost in the narrow stone streets, wander through the fields, and explore the houses where no one resides anymore. It’s important to listen to forgotten and lost stories, engage in conversations with ordinary people, open your eyes, and observe how the past has shaped the present and how history has created today’s Hvar. The island will enchant you, and you won’t even realize it has captured your heart.