Surely you have already heard that Hvar is the sunniest island in Croatia. When you visit it, you will discover that it shines just as brightly when it comes to its sweet gastronomic offerings. One of the most famous cakes on the island is the “starogrojski paprenjok” These aromatic cookies have been baked in Hvar’s kitchens for five centuries, originally prepared by women and mothers for their husbands and sons before they set off on maritime voyages. The recipes for paprenjaci, whose aromas now fill the air before every celebration on the island, and whose taste is woven into every joyful occasion in the lives of the islanders, have been passed down from generation to generation. Despite their name, they do not actually contain pepper. “Paprenjak” is a term that refers to a spice blend. Some of the spices used include saffron, nutmeg, and prošek, a sweet dessert wine. Hvar’s rich honey also contributes to their flavor. The dough is cut into various shapes, with the most common being horses, palm trees, hearts, goblets, flowers, amphorae, and fish. You can find them at the Tepić bakery in Stari Grad.
Original desserts of the island of Hvar.
Narančini, also known as arancini, are among the oldest traditional sweets in Dalmatia, made from orange peel and coated (once in honey) with crispy, granulated sugar. Narančini are among the most sought-after and highly regarded products of the Dalmatian islands, including the island of Hvar, and they represent a triumph of flavor. They stand out primarily for the quality and authenticity of the ingredients. The original recipe is applicable only to oranges that are not sprayed, and only then can they be called narancini. Where exactly can you buy them, I wonder too – let me know!
Now we’re going to have a little laugh because technically this is not a dessert, but rather a kind of homage to my generation who used to eat raw eggs without fear of contamination or stomach issues. When we craved something sweet, our grandmothers, exhausted from their work around the house and fields, would prepare a simple dessert with just one egg yolk and a few teaspoons of sugar. To make it even better, we had to beat that dessert ourselves, or rather “beat” the egg into the sugar. Two birds with one stone, keeping the child entertained, full and happy – all with just one egg and a little sugar.
My grandma wasn’t a typical housewife, cook, or pastry chef. She prepared food like most Dalmatian women, and desserts were least important hole on her pipe. There was always the obligatory “sirnica” (no one knew how to make it like her), an apricot sponge cake hidden from us UNDER the kitchen tablecloth, and roasted almonds. Or “bruštulane omendule,” or sugared almonds, however you prefer to call them. When we would notice a small bowl of sugared almonds, we would eagerly run towards it, only to be scolded by grandma. We will prepare the recipe for sugared almonds soon, but in the meantime, be sure to look for this delicacy in the delicatessen shops of Hvar. We recommend stretching your legs to the delicatessen shop “Za pod zub” in Stari Grad, where you can find a variety of delicacies.
We will complete everything with a typical Hvar dessert. Pitovska torta is the only traditional Hvar cake that carries the name “torta” (cake). The recipe originates from the monastery, and thanks to its simplicity, being made with only 4 ingredients – eggs, almonds, sugar, and lemon zest, it has stood the test of time. This delicious cake is sometimes enhanced with chocolate and raisins in certain variations. Stay tuned for the recipe for the best Pitovska torta, and more sweet treats from the sunniest kitchen in the world. Until then, farewell and best wishes! One of the restaurants that I know has been serving this dessert for many years is Restaurant Davor in Zavala.
